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The New Cat or Kitten
Why have a cat?
Cats make wonderful, caring and, for the most part, undemanding companions. Before you acquire a cat, you should first ask yourself the following questions.Will a cat fit in with your lifestyle?
Will a cat get along with the other people and/or animals in your household?
Will you have enough money to care for your cat's needs such as de-sexing, food, worming, flea treatments and emergency vet care?
Are you planning on keeping an inside or an outside cat?
Do you want a purebreed or moggie?
Do you want to breed or show your cat?
These are serious questions. A cat adapts well to an indoor life, and can easily adjust to spending much of the day alone. Although they appreciate company, they are naturally solitary animals, unlike dogs and most other pets. Despite this independance - cats are capable of forming complex social relationships with other cats, people and animals. Whether your cat will adapt to your household depends much on the cats age, temperament and earlier experiances. A cat that has been attacked by a dog in the past may find it difficult to accept even the most cat-friendly pooch - but a cat raised with dogs can become quite accomodating towards its canine house-mates. This relationship also depends on the dog, of course, and will be discussed later in this section.
Where to Find a Cat.
Cats and kittens can be found in many places. For a cat without pedigree, the best place to look will be in your local pet shop, Animal Refuge or in the Classified section of your local newspaper. For a purebred cat - it is best to purchase from a reputable breeder. A list of breeders can be obtained from most Feline Councils or Breed Associations.
Cat or Kitten?
When choosing a new feline friend - age does matter.Whether you decide to acquire a cat or a kitten will depend upon many things. A kitten is yet to develop its personality and will be more likely to fit in to your particular household and get along with other people and animals. Kittens are adorable and entertaining, very fun to have around - but they can also get themselves into more trouble than an adult cat and will require more supervision. A kitten is less likely to appreciate being left alone and will need to be trained to use litter trays etc and learn acceptable behaviour patterns. Most people are prepared for this, but some people may be better off with an adult cat. Adult cats are set in their ways - if you are acquiring an adult cat - it will be less likely to intergrate well with your family unless it is coming to you from a similar situation. Some cats can be very adaptable and will settle in to their new life without problem - but others will display problem behaviours in response to the stress of rehousing. Generally though, if an adult cat settles in well with your household, they will require less care and supervision than a kitten.
One Cat or Two?
Although cats are solitary by nature, most cats love the company of another cat, person or animal. This type of relationship generally begins in kittenhood and two cats from the same litter can be lifelong friends. However, this is not always the case, so caution is advised when choosing this option. Generally speaking, female cats - due to their nurturing instincts, form closer friendships with other cats. The friendship between two female cats is more likely to last than that of two males. As in everything, there are exceptions - and much depends upon the temperament of the cats involved.
How to Choose a Cat.
When choosing a cat, it is best to have an idea of what you are looking for before you go looking, and do not buy on impulse. You should have a breed or type of cat in mind and you should have decided upon the sex of your cat beforehand. Male cats are cheaper to de-sex, but are more likely to spray and fight with other cats. Female cats are usually less aggressive, and spray less often. An entire cat of either sex should only be kept for breeding purposes, and in most cases, tom cats should not be kept inside unless you want your house to smell.
If you are getting a kitten, you may need some idea of what it will be like when it is older. View the cats parents, if possible. When buying from a breeder ask to see both parents, or at very least the mother. It is also important to check the mother cat, the kitten itself and its litter-mates for any signs of ill-health before taking your cat home. Ask to see proof of vaccination etc and any other relevent documents. Ask if the cat has been vet-checked, wormed and treated for fleas. Buying a cat from a pet shop does not mean that they have been vaccinated, wormed, treated for fleas or checked by a vet. Some stores have policies, others do not. It is important to ask these questions before you purchase a cat from anyone.
Signs of ill-health are weeping eyes and/or nose, an unkempt coat, dirty ears, scratching, bare patches or sores on the skin, cloudy eyes, stiff or uneven gait, third eye-lids showing, diahorrea and listlessness. Kittens tend to sleep a lot, but are more active when awake than most adult cats. If unsure, ask to hold the kitten or cat and to see it walking around or playing with others. Check for deafness by clicking your fingers to one side of the cats head to see if the ears move towards the sound.
What You Will Need.
Before you bring your cat home, you will need a few things made ready for its arrival. A food bowl, water bowl, litter tray and scratching post should be acquired, as well as a sturdy cat carrier for your cat to travel in. Of course, you will also need some food for your cat to eat - but first find out what food it is used to and try to match this as closely as possible. If you plan to let your cat outside, it will still need to be confined during the first few days, so a litter tray will still be needed. A long-haired cat will require a brush or comb. Worming and flea treatments can be bought as needed. If you plan to walk your cat on a harness and leash - buy one early on as the sooner it is introduced the better your cat will accept it. If you want your cat to have its own bed, it is best to get one straight away, as cats are creatures of habit. However, bear in mind that although you may buy your cat the best bed on the market - a cat will always prefer to sleep where it feels most comfortable and safe. This location may change according to the time of day, temperature and the household routine. Do not expect your cat to sleep only in its bed. There is more information on these cat items in the general care pages.
The First Few Days.
The first thing you should do when you bring your cat home is to put its cat carrier in a safe, quiet place and leave it alone for about half an hour. This should preferably be in the area of the house you are planning to keep your cat in for the first few days. Choose an area away from activity and other animals. If your carrier is of the open-top variety, place a towel over the top and one side to make your cat feel safer. You do not have to leave the room at this stage, but should sit quietly and watch your cat from a comfortable distance. Do not stare at your cat as they may find this threatening. Your cat will sniff the air and begin to relax as it becomes accustomed to its surroundings. After half-an hour, open the carrier and retreat, allowing the cat to explore at its own pace and in its own time.
If you cannot set a room aside for your cat, a large cage will do the job as long as it is covered on at least two sides. Placing it in a corner will do. Covering part of the roof will make your cat feel safer. Do not be surprised if your cat wants to hide for much of the first day or two - new surroundings are stressful and the more a cat is pressured, the more likely it will feel stressed. Do not do anything in the first few days to add to your cats stress. Leave worming, etc until your cat has settled in - unless an emergency crops up. When you first leave the room, wait at least half-an hour before returning. This will give your cat time to explore the room alone. If you bring a cat treat or toy when you return, this will serve to associate good things with your presence. For the first few days, do not pick your cat up unless it comes to you. A cat can feel threatened by being restrained, but still needs to become used to being held, so handle your cat as often as it will let you.
When your cat seems comfortable with its room or cage, and with you and anyone else who will be caring for it, it is time to allow it to explore the rest of the house. This is best done one room at a time. Small children and other animals should be kept away from the cat or confined until the cat is comfortable with its surroundings. If your cat is to live outside, it will be more difficult to monitor its exploration and to keep it safe. To ensure your cat returns, wait until you are sure that your cat trusts you before letting it out and feed your cat at the same time each day. I recommend confining your cat at night, especially in areas where your cat and/or wildlife is at risk. To do this, it is best to ensure that your cat returns by feeding them in the late afternoon, just before locking them up for the night.
Your Cat and Other Animals.
Introducing your cat to other animals is best done when your cat is happily accustomed to its surroundings. Firstly, a cat needs an area of the house where it can feel safe - this may be its own room, cage or frequent resting-place. In the case of dogs, most cats will be able to find a high place where dogs cannot reach them. First introductions can be made in neutral territory (ie. not either animals sleeping or eating area), and with a barrier such as a door, cage wall, sliding glass door or window between them to prevent injury to either. If you have more than one other animal, introduce your cat to them one at a time, as dogs and other cats can be more likely to attack when in a group. After this, you may allow your cat to roam the room freely while your other animals are restrained. Give each animal a chance to watch the other moving freely around the room before deciding on removing the barrier. If , after this initial introduction, you feel that you cannot trust your dog with the new cat - then perhaps you should keep them separated - at least for a while longer. It is a good idea to muzzle your dog before letting them meet without a barrier between them for the first time, especially if either cat or dog show aggression towards each other. Restrain your dog on a leash at first, and allow them to become used to the cat being in the room before letting your dog approach the cat for the first time. Do not allow your dog to chase the cat, as what begins as a game can have serious consequences. Given time, animals that do not get along well together and cannot be separated may work out their differences enough to simply ignore each others existence. If your house is large enough for each animal to occupy its own territory - do not be concerned about this, but for animals that frequently fight - rehousing is often the best and safest option.
Getting to Know Your Cat.
As you and your cat get to know each other, you will become aware of each others likes, dislikes, personality and daily routine. Your cat will have its moods, much like your own, and will slowly fill a gap in your life you may not have known was even there. Cats may not be as loyal, as protective or as eager to please as dogs - but they are (as you will see), worth having . A cat in the house is its own reward.