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General Cat Care

The Incredible Cat

Cat Items

Indoors/Outdoors

The Incredible Cat 

 

Cats have elastic bodies. Their spines are held together by muscles, instead of ligaments as in the human body. Due to this extra elasticity, they are able to move their spines by as much as 180 degrees. They have 7 cervical, 13 thoracic, 7 lumar and 3 sacral vertebrae - 5 more than we have. There are also 21 caudal vertebrae in the tails of most cats.

Cats have no collarbone, as such, and shoulderblades with unique shoulder joints attached to the sides which allow the legs to turn in nearly any direction. These features allow for increased movement and power. Ernest E. Thompson, in his book 'Anatomy of Animals', says of the cat: " The shoulder has so much play that the scapula may touch the jaw, or slide back as far as the 8th or 10th rib, while the muscles regulating these movements are greatly developed, endowing the Cat with remarkable power for climbing and for striking blows."

Cats walk with minimum expenditure of energy. The hind feet fall into the track left by the front, leaving a single, irregular track. Most domestic cats can run at about 31 miles per hour - this allows them to escape from most predators.

Cats sleep 16 hours a day, with 70% of that spent in light catnaps. Only 30% of cat sleep is deep sleep, often with their paws twitching and ears flicking in dreams. A cat will only sleep deeply if it is in a safe and secure place - such as a concealed or high area, or, of course its favourite chair!

Cats possess the largest eyes of all carnivores. The eyes of the domestic cat use nearly 50% more available light than ours, and thus need only 1/6th the level of illumination. Although cats generally have good sight, a cat's near vision isn't very good, and a cats peripheral vision is clearer than looking straight ahead. Cats do see in colour, but they may not see colours as we do - they can see more shades of grey than we can, and could be more sensitive to ultraviolet light.

Cats ears are adapted to hear high-pitched sounds - corressponding to the cries of their prey, birds and rodents. They do not hear extremely low tones, but can outhear us on the higher end of the scale. Cats can hear the sounds made by mice up to 60 00 cycles per second - compared with our 20 000 cycles per second.

Perhaps the cats most important sense in scent. Cats use scent in mating, recognizing food and identifying other cats and people. They have 67 million olfactory (scent) cells in their nose, while we have only 5-20 million.

As you can see from above - our cats are truly amazing animals. They are the ultimate predators, capable of super-fast reactions, and have incredible power in comparison to body size. They can be quiet, soft and gentle - then suddenly explode into action.

They can be extremely noisy while fighting and mating, almost silent while hunting or walking around the house - and can delicately and easily navigate the tops of fences or cluttered desks and benches. The cat is incredible!

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Cat Items.

Some of the first things you will need to buy when you take ownership of a cat ( or when a cat takes ownership of you), are basic cat items such as a food and water bowl, a cat carrier, cat food, flea and worm products, a litter tray (and litter) and a scratching post. Optional items include toys (especially for inside cats), cages, collars, grooming tools (essential for longhairs), shampoos, harnesses and cat flaps.

Cat Beds:

You may also want to buy your cat a bed to sleep in, but most cats will sleep wherever they feel most comfortable so do not expect your cat to use its bed all of the time. The sooner a cat has its own bed - the more likely it will be to sleep in it frequently - and it may well become a haven for your cat during times of stress as it will carry your cats scent. For this reason - a cat's bed should be in a safe, secure and quiet area of the house or yard. Another type of cat bed is a cat hammock. Cat hammocks consist of a frame with a cloth

Cat Bowls:

Your cat will soon know that its food and water come in its own bowls, and will even recognise its bowl from that of another cat. Of course, there are cats that will eat out of another cats bowl without discrimination - so you may need to watch your cat eat or even seperate them from other cats if one of your cats tends to muscle in on another cats food. A cats bowl is not as important to a cat as its position in a room - so try and feed your cat in the same place every day if not in the same bowl.The best bowls are well-rounded and easy to clean - square bowls can trap food in the corners and make cleaning difficult. I find that cats prefer shallow bowls to deeper ones - they can easily see around them and this will make for a more comfortable and relaxed meal. Likewise, a cat's water bowl should not be too deep - and should be placed in the same area each time it is re-filled. If you feel like spending a bit more money on your cat's dish - you could buy your cat an automatic feeder or fountain. These units keep the food fresh and the water bowl filled so your cat always has access to fresh, clean food and water.

Cat Scratching Posts:

You need only to have a look in our cat shopping pages to realise that there is a huge selection of cat scratching posts on the market. The best scratching posts are the ones with many levels as they allow your cat to exercise by jumping and climbing. This is especially true for a cat that is permanently indoors. To save your furniture - a cat that is allowed inside at any time should be provided with a scratching post from the moment it enters your household. Scratching at furniture can be a hard habit to break and is best avoided. There are some great cat scratchers on the market - but they can also be expensive - so if you are on a budget, it may be best to make your own. This is not as hard as it may seem - all you will need is a sturdy base and a carpet-covered pole. The pole can be made from an old cardboard roll such as the rolls used for rolls of cloth or carpet- as long as it is strong enough. Extra cardboard can be wrapped around it to provide extra strength before the carpet is added. If you use your imagination - you can create an entire play-gym for your cat. If the idea of building your own cat scratcher seems daunting - there are some cheap cat scratchers on the market that may offer little exercise potential but will at least save your furniture.

Cat Litter Trays, Litter and Litter Tray Liners:

Again, there are many cat litter trays on the market - but what you buy depends on how much time your cat spends indoors - and the amount of work you are willing to do in order to make sure the cat always has access to a clean tray. The cheapest cat trays are shallow, rectangular plastic containers. Trays with rounded edges are easier to clean than those with sharp angles. Covered trays help prevent litter from being scattered about by your cats digging. The more expensive cat trays offer stylish designs and/or self-cleaning utilities. Whatever tray you buy - it will need to be maintained everyday by scooping out the solid waste and clumped litter. The tray should then be filled again to the required level. Depending upon how often your cat uses the tray, you may have to change the litter completely and disinfect the tray as often as twice to three times a week. This will also depend upon what brand of litter you buy and your cats preference. Some cats hate the slightest soil in their tray while others will happily use a soiled tray (although it is not the best for your cat). Bacteria can quickly breed in a soiled tray, and urine will release ammonia gas, which can build up to dangerous levels, especially in confined areas. I recommend placing your tray in a quiet, well-ventilated section of the house. Litter tray liners are perfect for people who want to be able to dispose of the litter quickly and with little fuss, but have the disadvantage of seams that can collect pockets of moisture, hinder scooping and can be torn by a cat that digs and scratches excessively.

Cat Carriers:

Even if your cat travels well in the car with harness and/or leash, a cat carrier will be useful. For nervous cats they are essential, and for trips to the vet highly recommended for the safety of the cat and people around you. You may trust your cat to perch quietly on your shoulders while at the vets, but that dog beside you may have different ideas. A cats behaviour can be unpredictable when it is suddenly threatened with a strange dog jumping up at it while the dog's owner struggles to get the dog back under control. You may end up with a few extra scars and a new perfume as your cat defends itself by striking out in physical and chemical defence.(If you are not sure what 'chemical defence' means - read the section on cat behaviour). When travelling with your cat in its carrier - be aware that it could become a deadly missile during an accident, so for your cat's safety and yours - take the time to strap the cage firmly to the seat using the seat-belt.

Cat Toys:

If your cat is an indoor cat, then it will lack the stimulation of an outdoor cat. This can result in boredom (leading to destruction of property and sometimes abnormal behaviours such as chewing/eating cloth etc). To combat this boredom - your cat needs stimulation. There is no greater toy for your cat than another cat or the cat's owner - but for times when both you and the other cat (if there is one) doesn't want to play - then you will need a supply of cat toys. You can make some toys yourself from something as simple as a sheet of rolled paper, bits of felt, fur or other cloth and items such as feathers and ping-pong balls. A string threaded through a ping-pong ball with feathers shoved into small holes made in the ball - simple felt mice or balls filled with catnip and knitted wool 'worms' and balls all make good toys. The toy should not be small enough for your cat to choke on or too big or heavy for your cat to carry around the house. If the toy is dangled from a thin string or other type of cord - it should only be used for supervised play in order to prevent risk of strangulation. If you do not supply a toy for your cat they may very well find their own - sometimes not the type of toy that you want your cat to have! If you do not want to make a toy - there are many available on the market ranging from cheap, simple balls and mice to high-tech gadgets.

Cat Cages:

Cages can be used indoors or outdoors to house your cat and range from small cages with only enough room for bed and tray to huge outdoor runs. Smaller cages can be used as night-time enclosures, travelling accomodation, for cats recovering from an illness, quarantine enclosures and training aids (to teach a cat to use a litter tray for example). Larger indoor cages can be used as temporary quarters for longer than one or two nights - for example, to keep your cat from escaping while renovating, if you have visitors with small children and if strangers will be frequently entering your house while you are out (such as if you are selling your house). Outdoor runs can be medium-sized pens adjacent to and with access to your house through to idependant runs and quarters for entire males. Wire netting can also be used to enclose your entire backyard. More information on cat runs and enclosures can be found by clicking on the Indoors or Outdoors? link above.

Collars, Harnesses, Leads and Muzzles:

A cat should wear a collar with an identification or registration collar to ensure that your cat is returned to you if lost or injured while roaming. Even if your cat is micro-chipped, a collar is a sure sign that the cat has an owner and that the owner probably wants their cat back, so works in cases where micro-chipping doesn't. A lead can be used when walking your cat outdoors, in the car or any such situation where you want to prevent your cat from running away but allow it to exercise. A leash can be attached to your cats collar, but should be used in combination with a harness for a safer restraint. Cat muzzles can be used for trips to the vet and other situations where your cat may bite you or someone else. They can also be used when introducing your cat to another animal - especially another cat or an animal such as a rabbit that may be mistaken for prey.

Shampoos, Conditioners and Grooming Tools:

You may want to bathe and/or groom your cat even if it is a shorthaired moggie. Grooming your cat will help massage its skin, remove dead hairs, fleas and dirt and will distribute natural oils more evenly through its coat. Bathing will remove dirt and leave your cat smelling clean and with a glossy coat. Bathing and grooming methods are discussed later in this section.

Cat Flaps:

These are great for indoor/outdoor cats and allow unrestricted access to yards and/or outside enclosures. They keep out insects and draughts, while allowing your cat to come and go when it pleases - unless you decide to lock the flap closed at certain times. Cat flaps can have the disadvantage of allowing other cats and mammals such as racoons and even small dogs into your house uninvited, so if you think you will have this problem - it is worth investing in a magnetic cat flap. This type of cat flap works by detecting a magnet placed on your cats collar and allowing the cat flap to open only for your cat.

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Indoors/Outdoors

Indoor Cats

Indoor cats are more reliant upon their owners to provide company and quality surroundings to relieve boredom and get enough exercise to keep them healthy and happy. If a good environment is provided for your cat, there is no reason for concern that your cat is missing out on anything by living permanently indoors.

There are many benefits of keeping your cat indoors. Indoor cats usually live longer and are healthier because they are less likely to pick up parasites and diseases by coming into contact with other animals. Injury due to fighting, dog attacks or automobile encounters is much less likely, so is being accidentally trapped in garages, cars etc. With cats that frequent storm-water drains, drowning is a possibility. Other dangers include electrocution from powerlines or power substations while chasing birds, being attacked by larger predators such as foxes and eagles, being trapped and 'disposed of' by other people: sometimes legally. In countries where venomous snakes abound - cats are in great danger of being bitten - although they can possess some immunity from snake venom it is unlikely that they would survive a bite from an adult snake. Some people dislike cats so much that they are more than willing to harm them - there is a growing concern of the RSPCA that children are becoming more and more involved in animal cruelty cases. Cats are prime victims of cruelty and an indoor cat is at less risk of being exposed to people that may intentionally cause them harm.

Another benefit of keeping your cat indoors is that they are much less likely to prey upon fish, amphibians, lizards, small mammals and birds unless they happen to come into your house. Not all cats bring prey home if they catch it - and not all prey that is taken from your cat and released will survive because of the danger of infection.

Your cat will need a litter tray, scratching post or tower (the bigger the better), access to toys that are easy to throw around (small fur mice are ideal but scrunched-up paper balls will do), grass offered at least once a week (can be grown in small containers), room to run, jump or climb, and some interactive play with a human, another cat and/or an interactive toy.

Some things that can be used to improve your cats indoor lifestyle are - a window shelf or hammock where your cat can bask in the sun or look out at birds etc. An outdoor run attached to the house or enclosed verandah/balcony (no matter how high this is it should be enclosed for your cats safety using cat-proof screening, mesh, heavy rope netting of a small gauge and/or heavy shadecloth. If your can is not free to come and go between its outdoor enclosure and the house, then a weather-proof shelter should also be provided. I also recommend a padlock on any external gates to prevent accidental or deliberate release of your cat.

The more complex you can make your cat's environment, the better. Remember, a cat prefers many levels so it can jump, run and climb, so think about perches and shelves as well as floorspace.

Outside Cats

If you must allow your cat outside, for whatever reason, there are some precautions that you can use to help ensure that your cat is kept safe. The first thing that you should do for your cat is ensure that your cat wears a collar that fits snugly but is stretchable enough that if it becomes caught your cat can wriggle out of it. The collar should have a phone number and possibly a name on it that is easy to find. Any tags on the collar should not dangle too much as they could become caught and break off. To prevent this, attach any tags directly to the collar itself, not to a ring on the collar. The collar should also have a reflective strip or blinking light, so that your cat is less likely to be hit by a car at night.

Make sure that your neighbours (in the entire block both sides of the street and other places that are close by) are aware that you have a cat, what the cat looks like, and that if they have any problems regarding your cat that you are approachable. One way to do this, rather than knocking on everyones door, is to make up some small flyers and do a letterbox drop in your spare time. This does not have to be done all at the same time. If you are aware of new people moving in to the area, do not forget to drop one in their letterbox. This will ensure that problems do not fester without your knowledge and result in a neighbour taking action against your cat that could be unpleasant. If someone comes to you with a problem - do not dismiss it. The fact that they bothered to approach you at all means that this is a big enough problem for you to take some action. Try to come to some kind of agreement with the other person as to how the problem is to be solved.

Make sure that you are aware of local laws and follow them. Register your cat if needed and stick to limits to numbers of cats kept, curfews and laws regarding spaying/neutering. Regardless of regulations, your cat should be spayed or neutered as soon as possible - especially an outdoor cat, as it will be less likely to fight, wander and cause problems for neighbours.

Try to confine your cat to your backyard as much as possible. If you have a high fence, you can extend it further and block any holes with mesh, wood and/or rocks. To prevent cats from climbing trees - an inverted circle of mesh around the tree above the height that your cat is likely to jump will work well. If extending a fence, try to lean the mesh inwards at slightly more than a 45 degree angle as this will help prevent your cat from climbing it, and extend to a height of 8 feet or more of total fence height. Another way of stopping cats from climbing is by using a slippery surface such as tin. Electric wires on top of fences (low voltage please - cats are sensitive!) can also work well as cats are very quick learners, but you may need special permission to do this and you will still need to block any holes.

If building or modifying fences or large enclosures is too expensive or impractical, try to confine your cat at night. Night time is your cats most active hunting period and also the time when it will be most likely to create annoyance to neighbours or be hit by a car. Buy or build an enclosure for your cat to spend the night in or allow it the garage, shed or laundry. A litter tray should always be provided but your cat may not need to use it. Fresh water should be given and the cat should be able to move around comfortably, stretch and have enough room for a tray and sleeping area. An enclosure should be also be weather-proof. Even out of town, a cat is safest if it is locked up at night. If you have a cat primarily for rodent control, then you can try to enclose it within the area that needs attention - this also ensures that the cat is doing its job and not somewhere else hunting the local wildlife.

Cat Enclosures

The size of a cat enclosure depends upon how long your cat is to spend in its enclosure without access to any other areas. If your enclosure is being built as an attachment to your house, and your cat is allowed free access, then it does not have to be very large at all. A simple box-like cage with shelves upon which to sit is adequate for most situations.

If a permanent enclosure is to be provided and no other area is accessed by your cat, you will need to consider size, shelter, and exercise areas. Many levels should be provided and your cat should have shade and a warm sleeping area with fresh water and grass available. Mesh should be used that is small enough to exclude other cats, birds and most other animals. If dogs are a concern, wood or tin can be placed around the bottom of the enclosure to prevent them from breaking through the wire. The wire mesh can be buried to prevent digging beneath the wire, or laid flat along the ground and weighted down. This way the grass can grow through the mesh and digging will be difficult. A cement botton is a good idea also as not only does it prevent digging - it also provides drainage and makes treatment for fleas easier. A sandpit with good drainage or large litter box should be provided and cleaned frequently. You can incorporate trees into the enclosure by using the inverted circle method described above (outdoor cat section) or by giving it a mesh roof (safest option). The enclosure will need a door and enough room for you to enter and do whatever cleaning or maintanence is needed. You can take your cat out for a walk on a lead and harness or you can spend some time with the cat in its enclosure.

If your cat has a good view of the backyard, it will find interest and stimulation by the comings and goings of humans and animals. Your cat would also apreciate a few safe toys to play with.

For an excellent book regarding cat enclosures, I recommend EnviroCat by Robbin Stewart :

Stewart, Robin (1997). EnviroCat: A new approach to caring for your cat (and protecting native wildlife). Melbourne: Hyland House. 146 pp.