"Cats, of all animals, are most subject to behavioural problems." Says Dr. Kim Evans of All Animal Veterinary Clinic in Nambour, Qld. Dr. Evans says that these problems are taken seriously by most cat owners, who will willingly pay hundreds of dollars to have their pet's behaviour improved.

 

Cats, like people, can suffer from stress and need counselling. Although some have described the cat as independent and detached, our feline friends can form close bonds with their owners and become stressed when this relationship placed under threat. Cats feel more secure in a predictable environment - so any major upheavals or changes may affect your cat's level of stress. Even such a simple thing as moving your furniture around could place stress upon a cat - especially if this is not a common occurrence. Cats prefer to use the same pathways to and from rooms and may become upset if a well-used pathway is blocked. This is partly due to how your cat defines its territory and where it has left its scent. Of course, most cats are adaptable enough to enable you to move the furniture, renovate, have visitors and to accept some changes to the household routine - but others may react to these changes in ways that we find disturbing. It is also important to remember that some cat behaviour 'problems' are in fact natural behaviours that would normally cause no problems, but become problematic when a cat is living in unnatural circumstances as with house cats and cats that are living with many other cats when they would normally chose a solitary existence.

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This is the most frequent problem that Dr. Evans is presented with. This problem is more likely to happen in households with more than one or two cats (multi-cat households). Inappropriate toileting can be divided into two main categories:

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For cats in the wild, marking behaviour is used to define cat's territorial boundaries - and is a method of communicating with other cats and avoiding a confrontation. Marking is important to a cats sense of safety - it is used in situations when another cat lives close enough to be a threat - and lets that cat know that a territory exists and is likely to be defended. Marking can also be a deterrent to other animals that may threaten the cat through aggression or competition for food. It is not surprising then, that one of the first behaviours a stressed cat is likely to display will be marking in inappropriate places - usually indoors and sometimes even on people!

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When spraying, a cat will back up to something, such as a wall or a tree, and with its tail in the air, sprays a small jet of urine onto the surface. This usually occurs outdoors, by cats of both sexes, at pre-defined locations and more often by entire males (tomcats). If a cat begins to spray inside the house, then your cat is telling you how stressed-out it is. Stress can be caused by other cats, arrival of new members of the household, change of house, new furniture, a death in the family, putting in a cat door or some other change. The causes are many and vary from cat to cat but they all result in the cat feeling that its 'lair' is under threat. Tomcats are most likely to be affected by this problem, so desexing can help.

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Middening

Middening is defined by a cat deliberately depositing faeces in a certain place - in the open and with no attempt to bury them. Middening is less common than spraying, and as well as being more disagreeable to cat owners, can suggest a deeper problem. Sometimes middening is seen as an attack against a person, especially when it takes place upon the owner's bed - but in fact it is the opposite. Middening in such a way is usually a desperate effort to defend the very heart of a cat's territory - the place where it feels safest and where the scent of its beloved owner is most concentrated - eg articles of worn clothing or the bed. As disagreeable as it may be to find such 'presents' left for us - we should understand that by punishing the cat we would be adding to its stress and making things worse. Middening can be caused by the same factors as spraying, and depends upon the temperament and stress levels of the cat.

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Litter Box Blues

If a cat goes to the toilet outside of its litter box, the reasons can be harder to find. A medical condition could be the cause, so always have your cat checked by a vet first. If none are found, then begin by looking at the litter box itself. Some cats prefer a certain type of litter so try different brands. Most cats will prefer dirt or sand to litter so this is an option - though obviously can be messier and will not have the odour-controlling benefits and absorbency of commercial cat litters. If your cat prefers dirt - you could try a mix of dirt and litter to see if that works. Try experimenting with the mix ratio until you have the highest litter concentration that your cat will accept, reducing it slightly at every change so that your cat will eventually use pure litter.
Look at the placing of the tray from a cat's point of view. Is it in the middle of things? Cats need privacy too. Is the cat's food dish too close to the tray? Cats wont use a tray that is too close to their food. If your cat is old, unwell, or a kitten, it may need its tray to be closer. Sometimes a kitten has never learnt to use a tray to begin with because it was taken from its mother too soon, it was born outside or its mother never taught it to use one. Provide several trays around the house for older cats and kittens or confine them to a smaller area and allow them the run of the house only under supervision. Older cats may prefer to spend most of their time sleeping in one area of the house. This is where their tray should be located.
Check how clean the tray is. Most cats prefer a clean tray and some will refuse to use one that is even slightly soiled. Cats don't like the smell of deodorants - baking soda is just as good. Maybe a second tray will help. As a general rule, always have at least one tray per cat.
If your fussy feline still wont use the tray, again stress could be the answer. If no cause of stress can be found, the cat may now be used to eliminating in certain areas and will go back to the same spot, even after the original reason has ceased to exist. For example - a cat that has had a urinary tract disease could associate the cat tray with pain and avoid it even after the problem has been dealt with.
In all cases, cleaning is one of the most important factors in curing a cat of inappropriate toileting behaviours. Use paper towel to blot up all liquid followed by equal parts white vinegar and water. Never use anything that contains ammonia or your cat will be attracted back to the spot. After cleaning, use a pet stain and odour remover that can be bought from most pet stores and vet clinics.
If your cat is stressed, try to remove the stress or take the cat away from the source. A useful product on the market uses the pheromones produced by glands on a cats face to calm the cat and make it feel safe. Ask your vet about this product or other products that may be helpful.
Even after dealing with the problem, you may have to retrain your cat to use its litter tray. This can be done by placing a tray on top of the area it has soiled. Once the cat has began to use the tray again, it can be slowly moved until it is in a more convenient location. If there is more than one area, use more trays or glue some cat biscuits onto some plates (use non-toxic glue just to be safe) and place these on the other areas your cat has soiled, as a cat is unlikely to go to the toilet near a food source. There are also a number of cat deterrents on the market that may help. One of the best ways to prevent your cat from returning to an area is to cover it completely with something such as a piece of furniture.
If these measures fail, put the cat into a small room or cage where it has a simple choice between bed and tray, as a cat does not like to soil its bed.

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This is the second most frequent problem that Dr. Evans is presented with.

Grooming has a calming effect, so if a cat remains under stress, then it can groom itself more than usual. Besides a very clean cat, you end up with bald patches where your kitty has literally groomed the fur away. With only skin left, the cats licking can create areas of soreness that can then become infected. Like other problem behaviours - overgrooming can become a habit and can be difficult to cure.
A cat will sometimes overgroom if it has an allergy, so this should be ruled out by a vet. If caused by stress, the cause should be found and dealt with. If it happens when you leave your cat alone, then your cat could be over-attached to you. A calming drug can be used if over-grooming is stress-related.

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Over-attachment occurs when your cat becomes too dependent on you. To deal with this problem you must spend gradually less time with your pet until it is used to being alone for periods of time. Dr Evans says that the most difficult thing in dealing with overattachment is convincing owners to spend less time with their cat.
When leaving your cat alone, always give it a safe toy to play with. Leave the radio or TV going as a distraction. Two cats entertain each other, so think about this option. Older cats will feel less threatened by a kitten. When introducing a new cat, confine it to its own room at first. Let it out for short periods of time to interact and explore. Dr Evans says that when cats live together, they will either make their own territories or become good friends. Once your first cat has become used to the new cats scent and has accepted it, the new cat can be given more freedom. Do not give the new cat too much attention, the first cat must feel that it is still important to you.
If an over-attached cat pushes for your affection, ignore it. Only pat your cat when you want to. This will ensure that your cat's attachment to you does not become excessive and that your space is respected. If possible, your cat should have a chance to go outdoors each day - preferably in a safe outdoor enclosure or on a leash.

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True aggression towards people, including owners, is rare in cats, but can occur. Most forms of aggression where a person is attacked are not a case of attacking out of rage but occur due to pain or fear.

Unlike a dog, a cat is a small, solitary animal, and although a predator itself, is very susceptible to attacks from other predators. Cats in the wild seldom relax, and are frequently aware of their surroundings even while sleeping. A domestic cat will only enter deep sleep when it feels completely safe. In short, a cat is well equipped to deal with sudden attack and its reflexes are lightning-fast. With teeth, claws and an ability to twist its body in seemingly impossible directions, a cat will not hesitate to use its natural defences in an effort to escape. A nervous cat is most likely to attack someone out of fear or a need to escape when faced with a fearful situation.

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Predatory Aggression

This is one of the most common types of aggression a cat will show. Apart from the obvious prey-catching behaviour, some forms of play fall into this category. Depending upon your cat - even larger prey animals such as rabbits may be attacked. This is part of the cat's nature and separation from the object of its aggression is really the only answer.

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Play is an important behaviour for cats. It not only hones hunting and fighting skills - but also releases built-up energy. If you play with your cat - be aware that you do not have the protective fur of another cat, so scratches may be unavoidable. Also, there is a time when play can become more serious, the cat is likely to become overstimulated, and injury is likely to occur. Bear in mind that kittens become cats with larger teeth and claws. I suggest using a heavy glove or even better - using a toy. Your kitten should be deterred from unacceptable forms of play - for example, striking at people's feet from beneath the bed, as these can become a problem later.

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A cat that is afraid has a characteristic profile. It will flatten its ears against its head. It will fluff up its fur and lean way from its attacker. A paw can be raised in readiness to strike - but the cat will escape if possible. Fear aggression can include attacks against dogs, other cats and people. It is born out of a need to escape a fearful situation. It is a defensive aggression and the only thing that is helpful in eliminating it is to remove the cause of the fear or to somehow demonstrate that the cause is not going to cause the cat harm. This can be a difficult thing to do. In the case of situations that cannot be avoided - your cat should be handled with gloves and restrained as carefully and securely as possible. In some situations, a sedative can be given to keep your cat relaxed. If a situation is avoidable - then avoiding it completely is sometimes the only answer. Causes can be strangers, dogs and being attacked by another cat. Aggression during pill giving is an example of fear aggression whereby a cat tries to get out of an uncomfortable situation.

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Like fear aggression, aggression can be a direct result of pain and as such is a reflex action. A cat in pain may strike out at the source of pain - or a person that tries to handle a cat in pain. This is also the case in overstimulation - whereby a cat, happy at first to be stroked, suddenly finds the stimulation too much and will automatically attack. The trick in this case is to be able to judge when the cat is about to reach the stimulation threshold and to stop patting it. A cat is also more likely to attack when stroked in sensitive areas such as belly.

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Learned aggression is aggression that continues to exist even after the initial cause is dealt with. For example - a cat that has been mistreated by a man may allow women to touch it but attack a man that tries to stroke it. Learned aggression also occurs when a cat that has used aggression in the past with favourable results, repeats that aggression in similar circumstances - whether or not a threat exists. All forms of aggression can become learned aggression.

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Displaced aggression is the result of feelings of aggression building up without the opportunity of being released upon its target. This type of aggression occurs when a cat sees something, such as another cat, in its territory and is unable to direct its aggression towards the intruder for some reason, such as confinement. An unsuspecting owner may begin to stroke their cat only to be attacked fiercely. Displaced aggression can also be directed towards other cats or animals.

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A cat on the offensive will hold its ears forward, its body will be arched and its fur will be fluffed out so that it appears larger. A defensive cat will hold its ears back. Entire males are most likely to display this form of aggression, but it is also common in other cats. Most aggression will be directed towards invading cats, but can sometimes be directed against people. For example - a child approaching a cat on its favourite chair may suddenly find themselves with a scratch for their pains. This is because the cat - while normally willing to avoid children by running away - considers its chair to be the heart of its territory, and will defend that territory against all. In rare cases, this type of aggression can extend to the entire house - and in even rarer cases - to the owner. In these cases only, interaction by squirting the cat with a spray bottle will be necessary in order to re-assert the rights of a person to enter the house unmolested. If located in an acceptable part of the house, and the cats behaviour is otherwise non-aggressive, a cats territory should be respected. If aggression is towards a particular person or animal, then the cat could be confined when that person visits. If all other methods are exhausted, the condition may be treated medically. It is also a good idea to have your cat examined by a vet in case the aggression is caused by a medical condition such as a brain tumour.

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 Scratching Furniture.

Scratching performs two functions for a cat. Firstly, it is a way for a cat to keep its claws free of old growth that may hinder the claw's retraction. The second is a visual marking to define territorial boundaries. Due to the dual nature of this scratching, cats will choose the same place to scratch and will also scent-mark these areas. If your cat has developed a habit of scratching the furniture, then this can be a very difficult habit to break.

This is a very common problem with indoor cats, and has forced some cat owners to resort to declawing in an effort to protect their furniture from being systematically shredded by their cat's claws. Besides being a traumatic and painful operation, declawing can result in your cat undergoing behaviour changes as they cope with the stress of amputation and is never recommended.

The best way to ensure that your cat never scratches the furniture is to ensure that it is provided with a suitable alternative from the very beginning, such as a large, stable scratching post. If your cat has already developed the habit, then it will be more difficult to deal with, but you can try a few simple things before resorting to more expensive solutions. Each of these solutions will also entail purchasing a cat stratching post or making a suitable one yourself as your cat will need an alternative. If your cat has a scratching post already but does not use it, it could be for several reasons.

1. The scratching post is too small or two unstable. Cat's like to stretch when they scratch, so the taller the better. It will also have to be wide enough (at least the width of your cat) and not wobble when your cat attempts to use it.
2. The position of the sratching post is also very important. If your cat has been scratching a certain item of furniture, move the scrathing post as close as possible to the area being scratched.
3. The material covering the scratching post may not be the most suitable for your cat. Many commercial manufactorers of cat scratching posts and 'cat trees' use a decorative fur-like material that some cats may not take to. The best material to use is short carpet as it consists of tight rings of thread that catch on the old, rough layers of your cats claws and removes them, making them retract easily. Other materials, such as corrugated cardboard can also be
   suitable, but will need to be replaced as it becomes too shredded.

Below are some simple things you can try before resorting to veterinary intervention:

• Move the item of furniture so that the area that is being scratched is less visible and harder for your cat to reach. If the item is unmovable, try covering the area with something, either permanently or temporarily. You can try a material dissimilar to the usual covering, paper, lino, aluminium foil, anything thatyou think might discourage your cat to scratch.
• You can use a spray repellent  or citrus oil on the area to help  discourage your cat.
• if you catch your cat in the act of scratching, you can distract it somehow, but be aware that any punishment may make your cat think that the act of scratching is the wrong behaviour and not the area it is choosing to scratch. After all, an expensive couch is just another object to your cat and has no special value - you cannot expect your cat to prefer one object over another.
• If you are away during the day, you can confine your cat to another area of the house, with a scratching post available. In fact, this is also a good idea at night and any other time that your cat will be unsupervised.
• Try spraying the scratched object with an odour neutraliser. This will make the area less desirable as a territorial marker.

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All cat behaviour problems have underlying causes. It is important to find these causes before attemping to change your cats behaviour, and deal with them first. In some cases, removing the underlying cause is all you will need to do in order for the problem to be solved. In other cases, the behaviour will have become habit and the habit will have to be broken. 

Cats can suffer from stress too, so next time you feel a little stressed-out, think of your furry feline. Buy or make a simple toy and play with your cat. You might be surprised at how much it can help both of you feel much better.

- Author: Melanie Schmidt.
Feline Addiction: http://www.felineaddiction.witchwolfweb.com

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